My Urban Sherpa

We know that recommending Peter Luger is about as original as saying “when you’re in Paris, you should really see the Eiffel Tower,” but the fact is that it is simply the best. Despite the proliferation of steakhouses across the city, among New Yorkers who are real steak lovers, it still reigns supreme. The steak itself is usually perfect; they have the best meat available to mankind. There might be an infrequent miss but far less often than at other places. The steaks are usually cooked perfectly, because, for the most part, they just crank out medium-rare porterhouses and the waiters, who really know what they’re doing, make sure you get the right steak. Everything else is simple and delicious and, with an upscale beer hall atmosphere, it’s also a good time. Despite a reputation for gruffness, the owners and staff seem to have mellowed out – the service is actually excellent, the hosts are pleasant and reservations are indeed honored.

Getting to “Luger’s” isn’t as bad as you think. It’s just on the other side (from Manhattan) of the Williamsburg Bridge, so it’s a quick taxi ride. There’s also a subway stop (the J train) which is a 5 minute walk to the restaurant if you’re trying to get there during rush hour. To get back to Manhattan, they’ll call you a car which will cost around $20. Luger’s will cost you a bit less than most Manhattan steakhouses, so the extra transportation cost is not a big deal.

A couple of insider’s tips:

They really don’t take credit cards, so bring cash (most visitors are incredulous). However, if you actually show up without the cash and eat your meal, they will indeed accept a credit card – don’t expect to make any friends though.

Peter Luger has an outpost in Great Neck, Long Island (not too far from the city) which has just as good food in a more pleasant setting. If you’re on your way back from the Hamptons or in town for the U.S. Open, it might be worth checking out.

Best Steakhouses You May Not Have Heard of:

Of all the Peter Luger clones which have popped up in Manhattan over the past several years, this one is the best so far. It’s right near Grand Central and in a very comfortable, though not too glamorous setting. The menu is identical to Peter Luger, the food is nearly as good, the service is fine and the location can’t be beat. Though, it has yet to stand the test of time (opened in 2006), it is currently as good as it gets in Manhattan.

Another Peter Luger spin-off, Blair Perrone is probably the nicest and most comfortable steakhouse in Manhattan. They inherited an enormous, beautiful space from the failed Ruth’s Chris East Side along with Ruth’s Chris’ signature 1800° oven which gives them a culinary advantage. The food is all around very good and the place is extremely nice and grand – a bit more women friendly as well. The location is very convenient (48th and 2nd) but just enough out of the fray that it’s typically not a problem getting in. Given the setting and the quality of the food, this place can’t be beat. Let’s just hope they get enough traffic to stay in business.

A bit different from the others as it is not a Luger’s clone, the Strip House is the best of the rest. Though not a NY original, the steak and all the food is fantastic including the non-traditional gourmet adaptations of the side dishes. The bordello-themed restaurant is actually very women-friendly and good for a date (it’s a place where a group of women might feel comfortable by themselves). Essentially, it’s a great steakhouse disguised as a nice restaurant. For a true “guys night out” you may want to stick to the other choices. The Greenwich Village location may also be appealing to some.

If you’re way downtown, this is the place to go. The original Wolfgang’s (at 33rd and Park) was the first Luger’s spin-off/clone. The food there is excellent but the place is so cramped, it’s to be avoided. The newer sister location in Tribeca, however, is spacious and vibrant. With the same excellent food and a trendy atmosphere, this is a very good downtown choice.

Places to Avoid (where you might otherwise be tempted to go):

BLT Prime

If you want to go people watching while in NY, there are plenty of bars and clubs you can go to when your dinner is over. This place is noisy, crowded and terrible. It is run by and frequented by people who wouldn’t know and don’t care what makes a good restaurant let alone a good steakhouse. On top of that, it’s actually more expensive than its competitors (as if that were possible).

Spark’s Steakhouse

“Inedible” is the only word which comes to mind. One of New York’s most celebrated steakhouses (and highly rated by other sources), in front of which mob boss Paul Castellano was assassinated, is actually not very good. Steaks are over salted to cover up substandard meat and the place really caters to its regulars not visitors. Too many choices these days to waste your time and money here.

Del Frisco’s

This may be the noisiest restaurant in New York. Nothing wrong with the food, but you may want to experience Del Frisco’s in another city (especially since it’s not a NY original).

About our Steakhouse Editor:

Jay Weiss is a lifelong New Yorker. He is a management consultant, not a professional food critic. He lives in Manhattan and eats a lot of steak.